Skinboosters: What do they really do? Evidence and limitations

PolyPhil Skinbooster with polynucleotides at alestetics® Zurich

Table of Contents

In short: Skinboosters are injections that don't plump up, but rather improve skin quality – moisture, elasticity, and a refined complexion. There are two families: hyaluronic acid-based skinboosters (focus on moisture) and polynucleotide-based skinboosters (focus on regeneration). Studies have shown measurable improvements in moisture and mechanical skin properties. The limitations are also clear: they do not add volume, do not fill deep wrinkles, and do not work overnight.

„Skinbooster» has become a buzzword — and as with any trend, a sober look is worthwhile. What's behind it, what's proven, and where does the effect end? We'll go through it honestly.

What a skinbooster actually is

A skin booster is a treatment in which an active ingredient is introduced into the skin in a widespread and fine manner to improve it from within. The purpose is skin quality, not shape. This fundamentally distinguishes it from a filler.

A filler uses cross-linked hyaluronic acid to create volume or shape contours. A skin booster does not do this. It does not plump, it does not alter facial features. It works on the texture of the skin itself – on moisture, density, and surface. We go into more detail on the difference in the article. Hyaluronic acid: cross-linked vs. non-cross-linked.

The two families of skinboosters

Here the field splits, and this is seldom explained:

Hyaluronic acid-based skin boosters applied to non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid. Its principle is moisture: the skin appears plumper, smoother, and fresher. Some preparations also combine vitamins and amino acids to provide the skin with broader nourishment.

Polynucleotide-based skin boosters go another way. Instead of primarily binding water, they stimulate the skin's own repair cells to produce more collagen and elastin. The result builds up more slowly, but aims for genuine regeneration. You can read what polynucleotides are exactly in What are polynucleotides?.

Both families are skin boosters — and yet they do different things. Which one is sensible depends on whether your skin primarily needs moisture or primarily renewal.

What the studies show

The data situation is good for such a young field, but it is varied.

Controlled studies on non-crosslinked hyaluronic acid skin boosters showed measurable improvements in skin hydration, fine lines, and skin mechanical properties. For polynucleotides, comparative studies showed an advantage in parameters such as skin texture and pore appearance, with a good safety profile.

Important for context: Most studies are small, and direct head-to-head comparisons are rare. To put it rigorously: In the majority of cases studied, skin quality parameters improved — not „in all» and not „guaranteed.».

What Skinboosters cannot do

Which brings us to the honest part that advertising likes to leave out:

  • You give no volume. Hollow cheeks or a deep tear trough are not a skinbooster issue.
  • You are filling no deep wrinkles. A pronounced static crease requires a different tool.
  • You appear not immediately and not as a one-off. The effect builds up over a short series and needs to be refreshed.
  • You are replacing poor skincare and no sun protection.

A skin booster improves the quality of the skin. Anyone expecting a change in shape will be disappointed – not because the product is bad, but because it's not designed for that.

Who a skin booster is suitable for

It makes sense to use it if your skin appears sallow, dry or thin, if fine lines and texture bother you, or if you want to build up skin quality before visible signs appear. This is precisely the core of a pre-aging approach: strengthening the skin rather than masking it later.

What we use in the clinic

In the alestetics® In our Zurich clinic, we work with two skin boosters that cover both families: NCTF® for moisture and a broad micronutrient complex, and PolyPhil™ for the regenerative polynucleotide effect. We administer both using the Vital Injector 2™ – without wheals or micropapules.

Which way to your skin is right for you, we'll see in the free AURA 3D Skin Analysis.

Read on


What are the benefits of a skin booster?

A skin booster improves skin quality from within — moisture, elasticity, and a finer complexion. Studies have shown measurable improvements in these parameters. It does not provide volume or wrinkle filling.

Are skin boosters the same as fillers?

No. A filler adds volume and shape using cross-linked hyaluronic acid. A skin booster improves skin quality across the entire area and does not add volume. They are two different tools.

How often do you need to refresh a Skinbooster?

A course of several initial sessions is usually recommended, followed by regular top-ups. The frequency depends on the preparation and the skin condition.

Welcher Skinbooster ist der beste?

It depends on the goal: Hyaluronic acid-based skin boosters are for moisture, polynucleotide-based ones are for regeneration. The „better» one is whichever suits your skin's needs – this is determined individually.

When will you see results?

Moisture effects are rapid, the improvement in texture and density builds up over the course and the weeks afterwards. A skin booster doesn't work as a one-off overnight treatment.

Alexandra Stroganova – Founder of alestetics® Zurich

Written by

Alexandra Stroganova

Founder of alestetics® · Pre-ageing specialist

Medical beautician · V-NISSG-certified · Lymphatic therapist · since 2021

Alexandra founded alestetics® in Zurich in 2021. She works according to the ‘pre-ageing’ philosophy: improving skin quality early on, rather than trying to conceal it later.

Find out more about Alexandra and the team →
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