Turn a Korean sun cream round and read the ingredients. There’s a good chance you’ll find filters there that you’d search for in vain on a typical US sun cream. That’s exactly why we so often recommend Korean sun protection in our skin analyses at alestetics®. But don’t just go for it blindly – because this category also has a weak point that hardly anyone talks about honestly.
Why Korean sun cream often comes out on top
The first reason lies with the filters. Korea – like Switzerland and the EU – permits modern UV filters such as Tinosorb S and M, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150 and Mexoryl. The US, on the other hand, was stuck with a set of filters dating from 1999 for years and only authorised the first modern filter, bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S), in 2026. These filters are photostable and provide good protection against the low-energy UVA range – precisely the type of radiation responsible for premature skin ageing.
The second reason is the texture. Because modern filters are effective even in small quantities, it is possible to create light, almost watery formulas without a heavy film or a white cast. You’re more likely to wear sun cream that feels like this every day – and, ultimately, daily use is more important than any high-tech formula.
Then there’s the skincare aspect. Many Korean sun creams also contain niacinamide, centella or hyaluronic acid, combining protection and skincare in a single step.
When it comes to our anti-ageing routine, one detail on the label is particularly important: the PA rating. The Asian PA system (PA+ to PA++++) specifically assesses UVA protection – and UVA is the factor that causes ageing. For daily protection, look for SPF50+ combined with PA++++.
The real catch: does the label say what’s actually in it?
In 2020, the industry was in for a shock. The acclaimed Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sun, advertised as having SPF50+, was found by two independent European laboratories to have an SPF of around SPF 19. Confidence in Korean SPF claims has been shaken.
It is important to put this into perspective: this is not a Korean problem, but a global one. In the US in 2016, almost half of 60 sun creams tested had less than half the stated SPF; in Australia in 2015, only two out of six brands met their label claims; and a US testing laboratory was charged with falsifying results for decades. The reason lies in the method: SPF testing on humans is difficult to replicate, and reformulated batches are often not retested.
It follows, then, how to choose wisely:
Opt for products whose SPF has been independently tested and published – you’ll find a good example below. Also, check the list of filters, not just the brand name: some brands reformulate their products depending on the market. SKIN1004, for example, uses modern filters in its international version, whereas the US version uses older ones such as avobenzone and homosalate. Same name, different protection. Buy from reputable retailers and avoid old stock, as filters degrade after their expiry date. And the most important point of all: apply generously – two fingerfuls for the face – and reapply. This has a greater impact on your protection than the second digit after the SPF number.
Our recommendations
We often include these six in our advice. Each one states which modern filters it contains – and where independent tests can be found.
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics (SPF50+ PA++++)
Four modern filters (Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150, Tinosorb M, Iscotrizinol), plus 30 % rice extract, cereal probiotics and niacinamide. Lightweight, dewy, hardly any white cast, excellent value for money. The big plus point: following the Purito controversy, the brand has revised the formula and increased the SPF to two independent laboratories Tested – Korea SPF 52.5, Spain 63.1. Our all-rounder for most skin types.
SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum (SPF50+ PA++++)
The same modern family of filters (Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T 150, Tinosorb M, Iscotrizinol), combined with Centella, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. The water-based serum texture soothes the skin and is well suited to sensitive and blemish-prone skin. Make sure you choose the international version – the US version contains the older filters.
Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel (SPF50+ PA++++)
A modern blend of filters featuring Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M and Uvinul A Plus, plus eight forms of hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide. Fragrance- and alcohol-free, moisturising with a dewy finish – ideal for dry and sensitive skin. According to the manufacturer, the SPF has been verified by a dermatology institute.
Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Airyfit Sun (SPF50+ PA++++)
A particularly broad-spectrum, modern blend of Tinosorb S, Mexoryl SX, Uvinul A Plus and Uvinul T 150, supplemented with black rice, niacinamide and ceramides. Fragrance-free, lightweight and invisible on the skin – a reliable everyday sunscreen for anyone looking for strong UVA protection.
Benton Air Fit UV Defence Sun (SPF50+)
Modern filters such as Tinosorb S and Uvinul T 150, combined with soothing active ingredients such as Centella, niacinamide, panthenol and bisabolol. Fragrance-free and vegan – a good, affordable choice for sensitive skin.
Aestura Derma UV365 Barrier Hydro Mineral Sunscreen (SPF50+ PA++++)
The mineral-based option containing pure zinc oxide, along with ceramide NP, hyaluronic acid and allantoin. Fragrance-free and hypoallergenic, with proven UV protection and barrier-strengthening properties. From the Atobarrier365 range by the Korean dermocosmetics brand Aestura – our choice for very sensitive skin and, particularly relevant for us, for use after treatments.
How to get them in Switzerland
Korean sun cream is rarely found on the shelves of Swiss chemists. You can order it from international K-Beauty shops or major online retailers. Two things make all the difference: buy from established suppliers rather than from grey-market stock with an old expiry date, and opt for the international version – only that one contains the modern filters.
Which one suits your skin?
The most honest answer is: it depends. Dry, sensitive, blemish-prone or skin prone to pigmentation spots all require different care. During a free AURA 3D skin analysis, we’ll take a close look at your skin and recommend the right sun protection for you – impartially and honestly, as we don’t sell it ourselves. Book your free AURA 3D skin analysis in Zurich now.
You can find more background information here: what actually distinguishes modern filters and whether treatments such as HydraFacial are suitable in summer.
